Joined: 23 Mar 2015
|Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 10:31 am Post subject:
|CarbonCycles has a large choice of rigid forks available but as you'll see, by setting just a few criteria, the choices normally quickly narrow down to a couple of options that match your bike perfectly. One size doesn't fit all as some brands might have you think...
Start by visiting the fork selector . Select your criteria from the drop down lists on the first row of the table.
1.) Start with the type of bike you're intending to run the new fork in?
- Cyclo Cross
- Fat Bike
- Jump Bike
- Mountain Bike (MTB)
- Road Bike
- Trekking Bike
2.) There are lots of wheel sizes available today. If you're not sure, check the size printed on the side of your tyre. You'll normally find numbers like ’26 x 2.125’ or ‘700 x 25c’. The first number is the size of your wheel the second is the width. The two numbers are often separated by ‘x’, so if it says ’26 x 2.125’ on the side then ‘26’ is the size of your wheel and ‘2.125’ is the width of your tyre.
3.) Next up is fork material. Top end forks are full carbon monocoque; meaning a single piece of carbon forms the steerer, crown and stanchions. Mid range forks have an alloy crown and carbon or alloy fork legs. The choice is yours. Carbon monocoque forks are the lightest and most expensive, and full alloy are the most affordable and slightly heavier. If you're going for carbon then you can choose between two finishes. A woven style called 3K or a unidirectional style called UD.
4.) Brake Mounts. If you're replacing a fork on a vintage bike you might be looking for V brake mounts, otherwise you will most likely want disc brake mounts.
If you're running disc brakes, are they Post Mount (PM) or International Standard (IS).
When running Post Mount your brake caliper attaches to the back of the fork with the bolts being screwed into the sockets pointing forward (in riding direction). If you are running International Standard then the bolts go through two eyelets (also on the back of the fork) but at a 90 degree angle.
5.) Almost there. Now we have to determine the size of the steerer. If its a new build, look at the frame specs to get the steerer size. For a replacement fork, the easiest way is to measure the diameter of the top of your existing steerer by removing the stem. Most steerers are 1 1/8 inch (28.6mm) at the top, but some older models as well as custom bikes and BMXs have a 1 inch (25.4mm) steerer. If your steerer is 1 1/8 inch at the top, then you have to determine if you need a tapered or a straight steerer. Best to take your existing fork out and check if the diameter of the steerer is the same at the top as at the bottom (straight steerer) or if it flairs out towards the top of the fork crown (tapered steerer). For some fork models, you'll be able to choose the steerer material too.
6.) Getting the right Bike Geometry.
If you are replacing a suspension fork, go to step 7.
If you are replacing a rigid fork then the best way to maintain the riding characteristic is to choose a fork with the same axle to crown length. Simply measure the distance from the center of your front hub to the top of your fork crown (where the steerer starts).
7.) In order to maintain the geometry and the handling of your bike when replacing a suspension fork with a rigid CarbonCycles fork you need to know how much travel your current fork has. On some forks this is written on the fork legs or even on the stanchions. Otherwise you can look up your fork on the internet, check the manual that came with your fork, contact your fork’s manufacturer or look for references in magazines. Once you know you can choose the correct ‘Geometry corrected for’ fork.
In the example above, you're now left with 2 choices which have different axle configurations. The first is for 9mm quick release and the second is QR15.
We hope this has helped you to find the perfect fork. If you have any further questions please get in touch and we'll do our utmost to help.